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Ricky Bobby gives you the drum on the surf today, my brus.





THE DAILY QUOTE

Where’s Steve? I don’t like it. he should be here by now!
Bali Strickland recounting the words of fellow On The Rock team member, Dave Sparkes. After two weeks of hurrying up and waiting for the Maui event to run and losing his mind in the process, Sparkesy had adopted a pet cockroach, which he named Steve. Every night Steve would turn up out on the porch, Sparkesy would pat him and talk to him about his day. On the last day though Steve never showed, and Sparkesy was freaking, thinking Steve had been on the wrong end of a can of bug spray.

See 'em all...


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WILKO, BAM AND THE BIRD...

December 6, Da North Shore



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MAUI: A LOVE STORY

Along with monster trucks and 9’0”s, the other mandatory possession every Hawaiian man, woman, and child appears to own is a large and ferocious-looking canine.

Despite their appearances, most of these dogs, however, are just big goofy fleabags, roaming free, sniffing bums, and rolling around in the odd rotten puffer fish. The DNA lineage of the North Shore mongrel mob is pretty skinny though, and every dog that comes up to you on the beach and rubs its bum on your leg tends to look suspiciously like the last one.

Checking the surf from the Curl Off The Wall house this morning we watched on and chuckled as the dog next door – a curious tan creature with a whippet’s head and a Labrador’s body – laid a grogan the size of a hamburger on the sand. Thirty seconds later, Joel Tudor came soft-sand jogging down the beach and missed by inches a turd so fresh it still had steam coming off it.

When the Curl On The Rock team showed up to their digs last week, they were greeted by several large signs saying “Beware Of The Dog”. At the end of a very short chain was a big, boxheaded, black and white guard dog whose name, we were told, was Maui.

Far from being the throat-chewing Cerberus we had suspected, Maui was a big softie. He was a she to start with, and despite possessing a head the size of a shoebox, she was more likely to lick you to death than chew your face off. She soon became a favourite of the boys… one boy in particular.

For Pacific Palms’ greatest living surf photojournalist, Dave Sparkes, a man whose house back at home in Australia often resembles a dog orphanage, seeing Maui that first day was love at first sight.

“She’s chained up all day but still has the most beautiful disposition,” says Sparkesy, his eyes glazing over. “I wish she was a mean junkyard dog, that’d make it easy just to leave her alone. But, but… I can’t.”

Returning from a day’s shooting, Sparkes will get out of the car, walk over to Maui’s kennel, and spend the next 15 minutes embracing the attention-starved pooch. The two take long, romantic walks along Sunset Beach, and Dave will often share dinner with her – rib bones, leftover beans and rice, spaghetti. “And when she walks away and that chain walks away with her, it’s the very definition of poignant.”

It’s a true, albeit slightly unnatural Hawaiian romance, and none of us would be surprised if Sparkesy’s boardbag goes home to Australia 20 kilos heavier than when it arrived. //SEAN DOHERTY

Feature Story

ROLLING WITH BAM


“Are you going to the game?”

Hawaiian mini-moke Kekoa Bacalso is on the cell phone again. Kekoa’s beloved University of Hawaii Warriors are playing the Cincinnati Bearcats at Aloha Stadium tonight and the kid is excited – he’s called me three times today already and the sun is barely over the yardarm. “It’s going to be mental. We’re playing Cincinnati. Last year we were fighting with them and just going mad.”

Football (the American kind) in Hawaii is all about the tailgate party – a pre-game carpark BBQ with the boys burning meat and pounding beers. Kekoa’s boys include fellow Hawaiian pros Joel Centeio, Fred Patacchia, Sean Moody & co. “We just get drunk and yell at the players,” he explains. It’s the last game of the season and Kekoa is pumped.
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I hook up with Kekoa in the carpark at Haleiwa, where he’s fending off congratulatory handshakes and backslaps. It was at Haleiwa almost two weeks ago that Kekoa cemented his place on surfing’s elite ASP World Tour, finishing third in the Reef Hawaiian Pro to qualify for the big time. “It was about time,” he admits. The stocky naturalfooter has been grinding away on the World Qualifying Series for the past five years. After winning the World Junior Championships in 2006 many expected Kekoa to burst onto surfing’s biggest stage. “There was a fair bit of expectation from the media. They were saying that statistically every single guy that won the Pro Junior made the ‘CT – nice big gorilla on my back, thank you very much.”

But things didn’t quite pan out that way. Kekoa hovered around the top 50 mark on the ‘QS for a few years, travelling and competing constantly with little success. “I was getting super frustrated and it was coming to a breaking point as to what to do. So this year I just tried to enjoy myself, to do whatever it took to feel comfortable – if that was drinking a few beers the night before my heat, then I was drinking beers the night before my heat.” The strategy paid almost instant dividends. Kekoa broke through for a big win at the Sri Lankan Airlines Pro in the Maldives in June, and the monkey was off the back. He came into the season ending events in Hawaii needing a solid result to finish in the top 16. When Haleiwa turned on pumping conditions for the Reef Hawaiian Pro, the ball was firmly in Kekoa’s court. “It was heavy, but if ever there was a time to do it, it was then. The final day was probably the most stressful day of my life but it all ended well.”  He finished the year inside the top 10 on the WQS ratings.

Many would agree that Kekoa’s qualification was long overdue. The 23-year-old from land-locked Mililani is a natural heir to fellow Hawaiian powerhouses Pancho Sullivan and Sunny Garcia, but also boasts lightning fast, martial arts-style speed and an arsenal of aerial tricks. He surfs with surprising agility given he’s built like a Sherman tank – he earned the nickname ‘BAM BAM’ when he was 13 years old. “I hit puberty and went from 50 pounds to 200 pounds in a week,” he jokes. His physique is a long way from the archetypal sculpted Adonis’ of surfing’s elite ranks – he might only stand a little shy of 5’8”, but Kekoa is pushing the 200-pound mark. “I’m a typical Hawaiian and this is how typical Hawaiians are built – nice and tick,” he says in mock pidgin. “But I’ve been getting it my whole life. I don’t worry about it… as long as I’m waxing guys.” A moment later he’s pondering a new-year training regime. “After January 1st I’m gonna try to get fit,” he says, suddenly serious, wobbling his belly.

Kekoa finally escapes the throng of well-wishers, padding across the bitumen armed with a box of Steinlager bottles – a present from one of the good old boys. “Free beer,” he shouts across the carpark, grinning as always. He loads up his Honda Accord, the beer in the back, “the bird” in the front, and now he’s off to the football. The January 1 training regime will just have to wait. //BRENDAN McALOON

The Blog

JON FRANK’S BLOG

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Just in case you wanted to know a bit more about the people behind these pages you are looking at for 20 days, I felt it may be helpful to put together a little questionnaire so you can feel like you know them all better. Eclectic doesn’t come close to describing the opposing views these staunch individuals can throw in your face, usually with little or no notice. Be afraid.



Bali Strickland (Video & film cameraman/ Vegan conspiracy theorist)
Age – 29
Stance – Front foot forward
Favourite wave – Copa Corner… RIP
Preferred music – Neil Young, Pearl Jam, Theivery Corp, The Cat Empire, The Black Keys.
Who would you kill, Bono or Tom Hanks? I’m a lover not a killer, but if I had to kill someone it’d be Jon Frank (ex-professional bass player / struggling digital photographer / poet) for coming up with what is truly a ridiculous question with little or no potential to either... come to think of it…. f*ck it, kill Tom Hanks. “Wilson?”
What is the greatest threat to humanity? Cockroaches will inherit the earth when the meteorites arrive.
Three things that scare me in Hawaii? Swimming, surfing, driving.
Books? Calvin & Hobbes, Roald Dahl, John Grisham, The Far Side
Blonde/ Brunette/ Redhead? Blonde (love you, babe)
Dirty secret? I’m not actually a conspiracy theorist, I only speak the truth…
What is your great life ambition? I have little or no ambition.
I (want) therefore I am.

Brendan McAloon (Freelance TV producer/ writer/ Victorian)
Age – 34
Stance – Quasimodo
Favourite wave – Boob’s Left
Karaoke tune – What’s New Pussycat? Tom Jones
Who would you kill, Bono or Tom Hanks? Tom Hanks as Josh Baskin in Big.
What is the greatest threat to humanity? The Flores “hobbit”. That little f*@ker is evil.
Three things that scare me in Hawaii? Schofield Barracks, Spam sushi, Doherty on the bike track.
Books? I like.
Blonde/ Brunette/ Redhead? Once you’ve had black you’ll never go back.
Dirty secret? I was a teenage altar boy.
What is your great life ambition? To be a lifetime member of the Gentlemen’s Club at Boob’s Left.
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Sean Doherty (Writer/ magazine editor/ not hirsute)
Age – 37
Stance – Buffalo
Favourite wave – nu
Song played at my funeral? I Ain’t Going Out Like That, Cypress Hill.
Who would you kill, Bono or Tom Hanks? I’d sharpen Tom Hanks and use him to stab Bono.
What is the greatest threat to humanity? Homeless polar bears turning on us… the sharks of the new millennium.
Three things that scare me in Hawaii – monster trucks, monster humans, Monster Mush.
Books I like – Macbook Pro
Blonde/ Brunette/ Redhead? Please God, all three.
Dirty secret? The death of my little brother’s cat in 1988, may, technically, have not been an accident.
What is your great life ambition? To one day be Pacific Palms’ greatest living surf photojournalist.
I (drink) therefore I am.

Simon "Shagga" Saffigna (Video cameraman/ raconteur/ orange person)
Age – Pass
Stance – Natural
Favourite wave – Snapper
Preferred music – Upbeat
Who would you kill, Bono or Tom Hanks? Tom Hanks
What is the greatest threat to humanity? STDs
Three things that scare me in Hawaii? Iceheads, the waves, iceheads.
Books? Good for reading
Blonde/ Brunette/ Redhead? Go the rangas, pureblood 2 live!
Dirty secret? I’ve naturally black hair.
What is your great life ambition? To be ambitious.
I (am a pure blood ranga) therefore I am.

Ted Grambeau (Photographer/ world traveller/ prefers collared shirts)
Age – Old enough to know better!
Stance – Upright
Favourite wave – Mexican
Preferred music – Bjork
Who would you kill, Bono or Tom Hanks? I would like them both to die of old age.
What is the greatest threat to humanity? Humans
Three things that scare me in Hawaii? Not coming to Hawaii, mixing dollar bills for 10 dollar bills, missing the  shot.
Books? One Crowded Hour.
Blonde/ Brunette/ Redhead? Yes.
Dirty secret? I haven’t done any laundry yet.
What is your great life ambition? To live a full and meaningful life
I (am Ted) therefore I am.

Shorty (Photographer/ video editor/ not tall)
Age – 34
Stance – Goofy
Favourite wave – A good one
Preferred music – Death metal
Who would you kill, Bono or Tom Hanks? Who?
Three things that scare me in Hawaii? Tom Hanks and Bono.
What is the greatest threat to humanity? Tom Hanks and Bono.
Books? Bono: His Life, Music and Passions and The Tom Hanks Enigma: The Biography of the World's Most Intriguing Movie Star.
Blonde/ Brunette/ Redhead? One Blonde in particular... You know who you are...
Dirty secret? I want to kill Tom Hanks and Bono.
What is your great life ambition? To meet Tom Hanks and Bono.
I (am here) therefore I am here, I think.

Brendan ‘B1’ Downs (Web Yoda/ vampire in a zombie suit, wearing a werewolf mask… aaa-wwwoooo)
Age – 35 turning 23
Stance – Goofy
Favourite wave – Jan Juc (LOL)
Preferred music - Eclectic mix of music really… my grungy upbringing in the streets of Melbourne steer me towards hip hop, but my maturity (LOL) in music taste lends its self to funk/jazz/soul, but sometimes at night I like to throw my hand in the air to a little doof doof! Where I like to pull out the lawnmower and the sprinkler.
Who would you kill, Bono or Tom Hanks? WTF… kill ’em both, along with baby seals and polar bears. Just kidding… lover not a fighter.
Three things that scare me in Hawaii? Driving on the wrong side of the road, poi, and the daytime at the moment (bright light, bright light!)
What is the greatest threat to humanity? Get rid of the haters.
Books? Google is my best friend.
Blonde/ Brunette/ Redhead? Used to fall for the blonds, but getting a flavour for the brunette, but in saying that… would be intrigued in seeing a patch of roses.
Dirty secret? Well, it wouldn’t be a secret now would it. (Don’t kiss and tell)
What is your great life ambition? I live life to its fullest, share, care and am one with all.
I (create/innovate/masturbate) therefore I am.

Jimme ‘The Rat’ Kinnaird (Video cameraman/ wall puncher)
Age – 18
Stance – Regular
Favourite wave – Avoca Point
Preferred music – punk rock
Who would you kill, Bono or Tom Hanks? Bono
Three things that scare me in Hawaii? Sparkesy, the clap, and cars.
What is the greatest threat to humanity? Guns
Books? I don’t read books. I wish I did but.
Blonde/ Brunette/ Redhead? Redheads – come on!
Dirty secret? I have a lithp.
What is your great life ambition? To be the best cameraman I can.
I (breathe) therefore I am.

Dave Sparkes (Photographer/ writer/Pacific Palms’ greatest living surf photojournalist,  backyard German existentialist philosopher)
Age – 46
Stance – Natural
Favourite wave – The old Bawa, the old Lagundri (earthquake changed what seemed unchangeable, a good wake up call for all of us)
Preferred music – Steely Dan, Gil-Scott Heron, Michael Franks, Batdorf and Rodney.
Who would you kill, Bono or Tom Hanks? Bono, his sunnies are quite droll.
Three things that scare me in Hawaii? Swimming Backdoor, Off the Wall, Pipe.
What is the greatest threat to humanity? It begins and ends with overpopulation. Every problem in the world can be traced back to the fact there are too many of us – please adopt!
Books? Steinbeck, Kurt Vonnegut, Lyall Watson, Ray Bradbury, Steve Goldsberry.
Blonde/ Brunette/ Redhead? Yes please!
Dirty secret? Fetish for natural beauty, stretch marks, cellulite, no enhancements girls – you are beautiful how you are.
What is your great life ambition? I want to try to be kinder, and help especially when a little bit of hassle for me means a great deal of joy to someone else; that’s a lovely ledger to work towards I think.
I (empathise) therefore I am.